Very much appreciated Jensen.
On a particularly unfriendly camera day (rain,and LOTS of it along with all things anti photography and anti having a car) the big west/north west swell punches into the North Shore of Oahu.....and when I say punch, i mean PUNCH.
It hammered in over night and was just detonating on the reefs by first light this morning when I went over to have a look. Half hour later I get a phone call from Jensen saying it's on......and to meet him on the beach to check all the GoPro camera settings and hit "start" before he paddles out. After last nights prep up it was just a formality, but hell.....it was pretty full on looking out into that firing west swell and hoping I was going to see my camera again still intact.
30 odd GB of video data and two surf sessions later I hook up with Jensen on the beach in front of the Volcom houses and unclip the camera for the second time today to go home and download, and right now I'm torn between blogging and going over Jensens files from today.
So, I'm sorry, but the"trawling" wins hands down. I'm checking files and will talk tomorrow hopefully. BUT, I'm up to my Surfline forecast (120 hours ahead) for one day before I leave the islands and it's all good or better so it could be a very frantic last week here. Hopefully there will be one or two pics from today posted with this blog entry before I hit "submit"
Sorry....no chicks on the beach today guys but heaps of carnage for my next movie......yeah, I know I've been "worded up" for less surf and more "other stuff" Maybe tomorrow.
Talk later guys.
Above....Jensen Hassett with the camera on the back in a sizeable Pipe pit.
And two frames on...totally covered.
Above...One very smokin Pipe Pit.
Flying sponger..... I'll have that drop, thanks very much.
Incoming !
No comments:
Post a Comment